The Wing Assembly
consists of the spars, the skeleton, and the skins.
will start the
wing parts by riveting the
tank attachment platenuts to the main spar.
Then you countersink the holes for the screws. This seemed unnatural to
me. I had to read
the directions a few times and
look over the drawing again until I was convinced that this was the
to do. It just
didn’t seem right to use
the platenuts as the “countersink jigs.”
But this is exactly what you need to do. If you try to countersink
without them, you
will make a
mess. The spar is
too thin to let you countersink
without the platenuts behind. You
to take off so much metal, that the hole will open up, and the
will start wondering. The
will be a countersink that isn’t round.
say to use a cut-off #8 screw to check for
final depth. If you
enough to make the screw head flush, when you add the thickness of the
skin, it won’t lay flush. You
dimple a scrap piece of .032 aluminum and use it to check the depth of
Vans has you separately
waited until I had a few
subassemblies before I primed them all together.
I did all the countersinking on the main
spar, made the tie-down assemblies, and completed all the rear spar
drilling before I primed everything at once.
I drilled only the holes in
each rib for the electrical conduit. Since all the ribs don’t go in the
facing the same way, I drilled top and bottom of each rib. This guaranteed holes
where I needed
them. Later, when I
bought the Dynon EFIS
and needed an AOA
line run to the pitot tube, I had to go back and
the forward tooling holes in the inboard left ribs.
You can see the electrical conduit holes in
this picture (red arrows).
I did not rivet the
inboard two ribs
on each wing assembly until
after the bottom skins were riveted.
top skin would have been no problem, but it would have been tough to
inside between the ribs to rivet the bottom skin. While you have them
clecoed together, try putting your hand between the first three ribs
maneuvering a bucking bar; it’s not easy.
The ribs were just too close together. It was much easier to push
them in from the
end of the
wing and rivet
them in place one at a time.
At this point, I put the
the jig. See jigs
for my ideas. I
spent some extra time here making sure
everything was square. The
talk about holding up the middle of the wing until the row of rivets is
ensures the wing is
straight, but not square. I
also used a
level across the top of the spar, and shimmed until it was level. Then I put the level
against the end ribs and
clamped them in place to ensure they were square to the main spar. The last thing was to
check that I hadn’t
added any twist to the skeleton. I
dropped a plumb line down and lined up the tooling holes on the end
ribs. Only after I
was sure the wing was true did
I start with the skins.
After the wing assembly
true, the main skins can be
clecoed on and all the holes drilled to final size.
You should be able to push all the ribs
around if needed to line up with the holes in the skins.
Don’t install the
platenuts for the
access panels yet. You
will be reaching in through the holes
while riveting the bottom skins onto the skeleton, and the platenuts
can get in
the way or cut up your arm.
It’s now time for the
jig discussed in Jigs. You
will use it to cleco together the leading
edges. After they
are clecoed to the
main spar, recheck them for square and true.
The tooling holes should again line up, and a
inboard and outboard ribs should show level.
Now it’s time to move
from main wing
assembly to the Wing Tanks.
from Wing Assembly
to Wing Kit
Return from Wing Assembly to Kit Plane Advice Home