Elevator and Aileron Electric Trim
This article talks about
installing the electric trim in a Vans
installing a similar system in any airplane,
another RV, will find this useful.
am using a
coolie hat switch on the stickgrip to activate
the trim, so I had to buy two ES MK-11, combination speed controller
decks. The kit
comes with two rocker
switches that need to be panel mounted.
If you are going to use a four-way switch
will need two
relays as a minimum (one for each channel).
I had heard from others that using just the
relay made the
sensitive, and one small bump of the switch changed the trim too much. So I opted for the
combination relay/controller right from the beginning. I put these
under the F-881PP-L
cover. Initially I
have them just zip
tied out of the way. After
and getting them set correctly, I will mount them permanently there. I haven’t decided exactly
how to permanently
mount them yet, but they will eventually go below the left mid cabin
I used interlocking
Radio Shack to connect
the wires to the servos themselves.
think this is a little cleaner than having six splices right next to
other. Make sure
you run the wires
through the small hole in the EET-802 elevator trim bracket before you
the connector. Take
my word for it, the
hole is too small for the connector to fit through.
I used the manual trim
cable hole in
the horizontal stab to
run the wires for the electric trim.
would be a lot easier to drill the holes and install the bushings
stab is riveted together, but if, like me, you do it later, you can
a bushing from the trailing edge of the main spar.
of the bracket was easy. I
did all the
drilling and riveting before I riveted the floor ribs together. This
let me use
real rivets instead of blind rivets.
You could still buck the rivets if you are
installing it after the
put together, but you might have problems with the four rivets across
bottom of the bracket.
used a Dremel tool with
a small grinding bit to enlarge the inside of the SB437-4 snap bushing
to allow the F-8109 slide tube to move freely.
I riveted just
the bracket and tube guide to the floor ribs.
I saved the rest of the parts until I was
installing the control
pushrods for the final time. This
after all of the electrical system was complete, the wings were hung
The hardest part was the
installation of the second
spring for the roll trim. I
hooking the first end on the WD-807 and working the second onto the
cotter pin, but it ended up working easier the other way. I hooked the cotter pin
onto the spring,
inserted it in the hole, then worked the second end onto the WD-807. The first side of the
spring hooked easy
enough, but getting the second side hooked was tough.
I ended up using two needle-nose pliers to
hold the spring as I flexed it into position. I just kept working it
trim was pretty uneventful. It
little filing to get the hole the right size to fit the bracket and
electric trim motor,
but nothing special. I
length of the threaded rod by running the trim motor until it was in
neutral position. Then
I clamped the
trim tab to neutral and measured the distance between the holes in the
and the E-818EEP-1 bracket.
After everything was installed, I ran the trim
deflection one way and moved the controls full deflection in both
directions. Then I
ran the trim full
deflection in the other direction and again moved the controls full
in both directions. That
assured me that
everything worked, and there was no binding anywhere.
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Aileron Electric Trim to Electrical System
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