You start building the
rudder by shaping the R-815
mounted on a bench grinder made quick work of dressing their edges. You can leave the little
notches showing, or
like I did, you can remove enough metal to make the line smooth. As long as there are no
hard corners, it
really doesn’t matter.
Just like the directions
will want to back rivet
the stiffeners to the skin. Start
putting a line of rivets into the holes in the skin.
Then put a strip of riveter’s tape across the
row of rivets. (I
found that if I turn
the end of the tape on itself and made a little tab, it was much easier
remove the tape when I was finished.)
turn the skin over; the tape will hold the rivets in place. Place the rivets over the
and put the stiffener in place. Drive
the shop head with the backriveting set.
Since clecos will get in the way, you will
need to push
down on the
stiffener to keep it tight against the skin.
Bending the trailing edge
work. Read Bending
Trailing Edges for my technique.
If you are going to crimp
rivets, you don’t need to
clamp, but if you are going to buck them, clamp that rudder to the
Bending the leading edge
as fun as bending the trailing
edge. Read Bending
the two skins match up nicely, blind rivet them
together and you are done.
Now read the Elevators
section, and the empennage fiberglass section.
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