The exact order in which you install the rudder
isn’t important. You will have to string the cable through
the fuselage, install the pedals, and then hook everything up.
The end of the rudder cable
fit through the snap bushings if the bushings are already installed in
the bulkheads. I had to slip the cable end through a
bulkhead, then push the end through a bushing. Because the
bulkhead wasn’t preventing it, the bushing could bend a little to let
the cable end pass through. Then I pushed the bushing into
the hole in the bulkhead. I worked my way from the tail to
the front, one bulkhead at a time.
took care of
the aft end of the cable after I could pull the rudder cable tight
between the rudder horn and the rudder pedals. I wanted to be
able to see where the cable naturally wanted to sit, so I could put as
little pressure on it as possible as it passed through the
skin. I ended up opening the aft end of the slit in the F-824
skins enough to allow the plastic tube to extend out a
little. This kept the cable from scraping on the aft edge of
the slot in the skin. I will add a specific note to the
preflight checklist and to the conditional inspection to look at the
plastic tube and the rudder cable for wear.
didn’t like the way the cable-exit holes looked at the aft end of the
fuselage. So I bought the fairings to cover them.
There is no specific position for these. I placed them to
completely cover the hole and the plastic tube. I also made
sure the hump in each was aligned with the airflow. Then I
looked behind where I wanted to install them to ensure the holes I
drilled had a good surface on the backside. I didn’t want to
drill through right at the edge of the F-889 longeron and not have room
to buck the rivet.
for the ground
pedals. They are lighter, and I figured I am the one who will
be flying 99% of the time in the front seat. So since it is
my airplane, it can fit me. I know this is a pretty selfish
point of view, but I remember all the times I crawled into a rental or
military plane and had to set the rudder controls and
everything else to fit me. I think
it will be nice to have it already set for me when I get there.
wanted to keep the rudder pedals looking good, and knew if I just
painted them, the paint would get worn off from my shoes. So
I found some stick-on “no skid” at Lowes. I cut it to shape
and stuck it to the front of the pedals.
provision on the plans to keep the pedals from falling aft.
When the plane is on its gear, the pedals fall aft and down.
So I added a light spring to each pedal, connecting it to the forward
most hole on the attachment angle. These springs are very
light, and do not interfere with full pedal motion, but they are strong
enough to keep the pedals upright when not in use.
fitting and drilling everything, I only installed the attachment
angles. I didn’t want the rest of the assembly to get in the
way as I installed the other parts into the cockpit.
Seat Rudder Pedals
I also opted for the
rudder control pedals.
After everything was
the cables pulled tight, I noticed I have a spot where the cable hits
the F-878-L&R mid cabin braces when the pedal is fully
deflected in that direction. I will have to grind some of the
brace away to get clearance.
will add more thoughts, and show the results here, after I fix this
After all the rudder control parts were in place,
was an easy matter to hook everything up. I
have left the aft two bolts connecting the cable to the rudder until
later. The bolts are there, but I
haven't installed the nuts or cotter pins. I
want to have the ability to easily remove the rudder if needed, and
also to easily have lots of slack in the cables, in case I need them
of the way to do some other work. I'll
finally install these bolts after the floor in riveted down, and I have
no more work to do under the floor.
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